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| Trocadero Plaza |
I knew from virtual treks online that the Trocadero Metro Station was nearby. This part of the city was really hoppin’. I was the self-appointed minister of directions. I knew it was safe, but could see that darkness combined with the frenzy could evoke some apprehension. Indeed, Joanne asked, “Do you know where you’re going?” I continued on confidently as we struggled to avoid separation. Finally, voila, the classic red Metro sign validated my homework and we started our descent down the stairs. The station was sardine city. Based on our prior brief experience, we surmised multiple trains would depart before we could get close to the platform. Back up the stairs we went and zipped back via cab to the 2nd arrondissement, well maybe it was the 1st. Our apartment was right on the border.
Arriving outside our building around 9:00 p.m. our son noticed a shop across the street with scores of wine bottles in the window and lining the walls inside. “I’d like a bottle of wine, said Tim. He was gone quite a while and finally emerged, bottle in hand. “It’s a wine bar and it’s closed, he said. They don’t normally sell wine to the public but the owner went in the back and grabbed me this bottle for 20€”. Ah, was that like something I remember in The French Chef by Julia Child? Julia stated that when she initially shopped the markets she was given the displayed run of the mill meat, cheese, and produce. After she became more acquainted with the merchants, they would go into the back to give her the good cuts. Maybe our son made a quick connection with the English speaking owner. I don’t remember the name, but it was an excellent red at a reasonable price.
Sunday morning our cab zipped past the glass pyramid nestled in the courtyard of the Louvre. That was not our destination, nor would it be this trip. We were off to the magnificent St. Germain des Pres for mass. Church bells echoed prominently in this sixth arrondissement as we exited the taxi. Across the street, the famous Les Deux Magots restaurant, once a rendezvous for the elite and intellectuals. The mass, spoken entirely in French concluded, and we strolled among others throughout the church, in awe of the restored interior, and the prominent collection of organ pipes. Our son rejoined us after roaming the streets having found a place for breakfast in this 6th arrondissement.
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| St. Germain de Pres |
Joanne was in need of an Advil, and had left ours at the apartment, so we found a Pharmacie a couple blocks away. The flashing green crosses were never too far away. Things are different in Paris. Prescriptions… three floors up the spiral staircase. The first two floors, hair products, skin products, cremes, lotions. The aisles were busy with Parisian women browsing the wares this morning. Fashion was on display behind store windows, and in motion on the streets, while beauty products jumped from the shelves. Style was ‘ever present everywhere’ to quote Van Morrison. Not in a glaring way like the flashing green crosses on the pharmacies, or in magazines, but subtlety and creatively on the busy sidewalks of the French capital… one of the big four fashion capitals of the world. Oh, the Advil…behind the counter on the first floor. Friendly merchant.
It was off to breakfast.
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| La Crepe Rit Du Clown |
The outside and main floor tables were full at La Crepe Rit Du Clown, so we were seated downstairs in a cozy room with stucco like walls and an arched ceiling. Large delicious folded square crepes populated our table, competing for space with glasses of fresh squeezed orange juice, and first class coffee. Yum!
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| YUM! My apricot crepe (not shown) was scrumptious. |
We found it to be true that to use the restroom in a Paris restaurant you should sit down for a cup of coffee or a bite to eat. We did not notice a bathroom downstairs, and right after we stepped outside Joanne said she should probably use the facilities and stepped back in. When we asked a waitress upstairs where it was, she gave a bit of a scowl, and hastily pointed to the stairs, likely thinking that we were just passers by. When Joanne returned downstairs, our waitress gave a friendly smile and directed her to around the corner. Yep, just like the script.
We had now in a short span seen grand architecture, sampled excellent food and beverages, and witnessed a fashionable culture. The people were polite, friendly, and willing to help. It was time for a ride on the Seine. We left the ‘left bank’ and our cab dropped us by the north side of the river. A walk alongside the water brought us to Bateaux Mouches, a major tour operator, where like most of the attractions, we had purchased online tickets Stateside. Seating ourselves atop a large boat, beautiful blue skies contrasted with historic weathered limestone structures straddling the Seine. The Musee d’ Orsay, Notre Dame, Louvre, Concierge, and Eiffel Tower among others collectively give the banks of the Seine World Heritage Site status. In ten months, the opening ceremonies of the 2024 Olympics would grace these same waters.
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| Pont Alexandre III Bridge |
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| The Louvre |
Onward with the compressed itinerary. We elected to hoof it in a northeastern trajectory along rue St. George V culminating at the Champs-Elysees. Strolling past the swanky hotels, storefronts, and upscaie residences above, we stepped onto the famous broad avenue. Famous for military parades, Tour d’ France finishes, and high-end retailers, it was evident that American influence had crept in and some influencers say it isn’t the must see attraction of decades past. Nevertheless, we were standing on a historical avenue, and future Tour de France finishes would always evoke memories.
Now heading west, the Arc d’ Triomphe stood boldly in the foreground. Tim, electing to further explore the offerings of glitzy tree-lined avenue, left Joanne and I to scale the Arc ourselves. The traffic circle that encompasses the structure is also the terminus for twelve intersecting avenues. Crossing it is not smart. So we of course opted for the underground passageway. In the midst of the busy tunnel, an officer strolled past, his rifle diagonally pressed against his chest. This was the only such sighting during our stay.
We emerged on the plaza with lines of people off to our left. A lone young woman was manning a roped off area. We walked over,
“Bonjour. I understand there is a lift.” She pointed to an entrance in the rear, opened the rope connector and we entered, short-circuiting the lines with just a ‘Bonjour’, and a short inquiry…hmm.
“Tell the attendant.”
So we entered and after again going through airport-like security we ascended some stairs looking for this attendant who we never saw, and elevator we never found. The lift, as I learned later, was strictly for people with disabilities, but maybe there was some exceptions. We climbed more stairs, circular in nature, and they went up and up…and up. A woman appearing to be in our age bracket clambered alongside with determination, visually commiserating as we made intermittent eye contact acknowledging the struggle. Alas, there was light at the end of this vertical tunnel! A last set of conventional steps revealed blue skies as we emerged atop the mammoth slab…284 steps later!
Steps away, sturdy chest high fencing offered protection, but no obstruction to the 360 degree views of the city, and landmarks including the Eiffel Tower. It was just high enough to get a feeling of wow, and still maintain a connection to the surroundings. How cool. I intended to ‘give up’ my knees for this city, yet by some miracle not one Advil was ingested the entire trip. The trek down was a ‘relative breeze’ and included a stop at the bookstore-boutique. Besides the obligatory refrigerator magnet, I opted for an official 2024 Paris Olympics coffee mug, one I use every morning. Never before had I been nine months ahead of the curve!
284 Steps!
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| Champs-Elysees |
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| Atop the ‘Arc |
Completing the photo ops at the base, we reconnected with Tim and ‘metroed’ it to the Opera station. Unfortunately our Palais Garnier late afternoon tour was cancelled, and we would have to squeeze it in tomorrow morning. We walked a few blocks to Galleries Lafayette and entered. Our eyes were immediately drawn to the magnificent steel and glass dome high above us. Proceeding forward, we were surrounded by style, elegance, and luxury. Paris’ world renowned brands in the areas of fashion, accessories, cosmetics, and food were all encompassed under this grand coupole. There wasn’t time to shop, it was getting near dinner time…our dinner time, still a bit early for the locals, known for their later evening meals.
In all the craziness of the day it slipped my memory that going atop the Galleries was on my list of things to do. The large space on top of the building offers views of the city, differing from those of the Eiffel Tower or the ‘Arc, but indeed splendid. I’ve lived that vicariously through YouTube multiple times since.
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| The dome at Galleries Layfayette |
Tim, struck again with local wanderlust, split off as Joanne and I walked and walked southbound past busy cafes reading the posted menus. Darkness was settling in and we ended up around our neighborhood. Just around the block from our pad, we stumbled upon Capri St. Honore, Italian no less, and a solid four out of five star cafe. The outside dining was hopping, and full of ambiance. Since it was off the beaten path and likely frequented by locals, it just might be good.
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| Capri. St. Honore |
We were squeezed into an intimate table for two. Smoke did waff our way, but eased when one group exited. Our waiter spoke English and politely answered our questions. Joanne ordered a small four cheese pizza, myself salmon. My fish was the best I had ever tasted, super tender. My side with sun dried tomatoes and zucchini was also superb. Joanne’s pizza got better with each small piece I tried. Parisian chefs don’t over season their food, and the taste grew on my palate rather than immediately overloading it. Overall, a very nice experience. After a short walk to our apartment, we began to do a little pre-packing. Tomorrow we would be moving along, which would prove interesting.

Monday morning. We slugged our rolling luggage down the tight staircase, closed a door, a gate, and another big green door behind us and proceeded to the Avenue del Opera. Yesterday morning, a half block north, we had seen patrons lined a ways up the block outside a bakery, so we figured we would grab a quick delicacy as time was tight today. Cedric Grolet Opera Boulangerie-Patasserie: Salon de The Et Bar…a mouthful of words, would yield no mouthful of food. Closed Mondays. Funny yesterday, the people waiting all seemed to be conversing in French, and in no great hurry, locals by my observation. Yet this well known establishment was lacking a couple stars on some major reviewing sites. Was this to keep the tourists away? A number of comments said $$$$.
So we proceeded up the grand boulevard designed by Haussmann. It stretched from the Louvre to the Opera Garnier, where a morning tour awaited us. Tim awkwardly pulled his handle-less suitcase using one of the vertical rails. In this case, it was a wardrobe ‘container’ malfunction! Right across the street from the Opera on our side was the famous Cafe de ‘L Paix. It is famous for its ornate interior, but we chose al fresco on this beautiful morning.
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| Cafe de La Paix with a view of the shrouded Palais Garnier |
After our marvelous pain au chocolates, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee, it was time to pay. We were running short on Euros, too short to pay this bill. Maybe we were a little undercapitalized in terms of currency and found the cabbies liked the colorful paper. What a time for the point of sale at the restaurant to go down and not accept credit. Ah, ATM’s across the street. After several tries, denied, denied. I later discovered I had failed to uncheck a restriction on my account. What the heck? On this very busy day, we couldn’t leave until the system came up. We waited.
Fortunately, only about 15 minutes more elapsed and the system was up. Onward to the Opera. With someone needing to tend to the luggage outside, we staggered our abbreviated self-guided walk-thrus. Some say it’s the most ornate opera in the world. Some say visit Opera Garnier and skip the crowds at Marseilles. Marvelous, and unfortunate we had to breeze through it. Across the street and down the stairs into the Opera Metro station we went.

Originally, I had allotted more time for Monmartre today, but the rescheduled Opera tour and the electronic payment snafu ate into the morning. The original plans were to exit at the Abbesses Station where we would see the Wall of Love and scale the long stairway, or ride the Funicular up to the Sacre Couer. The luggage malfunction dictated a different path. Strictly working from apps and maps, it appeared that a Monoprix (kinda like a French Target) was right across from the Blanche Metro. A quick stop inside, a transfer of clothes to a new case, and we would be rolling again, albeit on a slightly different route up to the highest point in Paris.
As we emerged from the subway onto the street, there stood the Monoprix, voila!..and it was encapsulated in scaffolding…completely closed for remodeling. No new suitcase. Hey, across the intersection was the Moulon Rouge, wouldn’t have gotten to see that had we chosen Abbesses. The way we elected to get to the top of Monmartre turned out to be via Rue Lepic, a famous street laden with eclectic shops and markets. There was no time to stop and smell the roses, and Tim’s patience navigating his rolling wreck along the narrow crowded sidewalk was running thin. I knew of a bus, but what was the route? I later saw the mini train that takes you up, incidentally with a pickup around the Moulon Rouge. This day, no bus, no train in sight. We slugged away up and up.
Finally, something familiar appeared, Le Consulat Cafe. I had seen that on the Monmartre section of the Paris map. It’s where famous artists, writers, and painters frequented…Van Goh. Monet, and Picasso to name a few. Tim and Joanne plopped down inside to rest their legs and grab a bite. I left my luggage and continued on up to the Plaza de Tertre, and the Sacre Coeur plaza for some views of the city. The lines to go inside the basilica weren’t as long as I had seen in videos, but that wasn’t doable today.
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| Sacre Coeur |
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| Plaza de Tetre |
Le Clos Monmartre. The only vineyard within Paris.
We roamed a bit after a stop inside the Gallerie D’ Art, the iconic ceramic shop. Apprehensive about the integrity of our luggage wheels on the hilly cobblestone streets and sidewalks, we descended down the Rue de Saules, past the Maison Rose restaurant to the next intersection. Nestled among the quaint residences, an iron fence separated tourists from the only vineyard within the Paris city limits. The small hillside parcel yields roughly two thousand bottles, an annual tradition since the 12th century. These days, the proceeds of the harvest goes to charity.
The late September afternoon shadows were lengthening, and three $150 Eurostar tickets were at risk if we didn’t work our way towards a Metro station pretty soon. I’m good with a map in my hand, and navigating a car using GPS is a breeze, but the little blue dot on an iPhone map doesn’t move much when you’re walking. Walking an unnecessary block rolling luggage on cobblestone streets and sidewalks with time pressure can cause one to lose some composure…and I was getting a bit rattled.
I knew the Lamarck-Caulaincourt Metro station was not too far, but my usually good sense of direction was failing me in my current state. I asked one woman for directions and she directed me to the Abbesses Metro. Two blocks back up the hill and then a number of blocks, not happening. I approached an older woman and asked her where the station was.
“I live in the neighborhood. Follow me,” she said in English.
Merci! Our luggage bounced and rumbled as we steadily descended, intersecting with Rue Caulaincourt, an avenue giving off vibes of old time Paris, the way I always envisioned it. Although briefly on it, the feel of a neighborhood was present. Some say both chic and Bohemian. The Art Deco styled Metro station appeared on our left, unobtrusively built into staircases and buildings around it. One of the famous ones.
The woman pointed to the map on the wall and showed us the route to Gare Du Nord. I knew the way from here, but tried not to rush her through her instructions. She was likely a genuinely nice person, and maybe going out of her way to erase stereotypes some Americans still may hold. A nice memory.
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| Gare Du Nord |
Exiting our last Metro ride, we entered the expansive train hub. I had spent time virtually acquainting myself with the layout, but the vast interior did not match my viewings. Everyone was moving and no information booth was to be seen. I believed we had to make it up to the second level, but there were turnstiles. It didn’t make sense to need a Metro ticket to be able to get to the Eurorail platform. My apprehensiveness as to how long it would take to get through security was speeding up the clock in my mind, although we were really okay. My two travel mates were getting a bit flustered with me, and the signage wasn’t giving them any clues either. The only people who weren’t moving were a couple of French guards.
“Pardon. Can you tell me where to access the Eurostar trains?”
“Bonjour,” said the guard.
With my composure waning, I had for the first time failed to greet a French person with the magic word!
Embarrassed, I nodded my head, raised my hand a tad, and used my body language to indeed indicate that I had forgotten the golden greeting.
“Bonjour.”
Yes it was upstairs and we were lucky to have taken a few cab rides which left us just enough on our ten-ride tickets to enter. Amidst the throngs of people we lined up, and security was tight. Baggage X-Ray, Passport scan, face scan, things were not as easy with the UK out of the European Union, and not a Schengen Area. With ample time (I had stressed for naught) we poured over the last Parisian food offerings at Paul in the waiting lounge and grabbed a snack.
Our gate number echoed throughout the waiting area and we made our way down to the sleek train, entering the clean interior. Easing out of the station, we again encountered long stretches of aerosol based artwork before accelerating into the French countryside.
Wisconsin-like here in the north of France, in my opinion. Green, amber, wind turbines. No Alps or Pyrenees around here. This is high speed travel, city center to city center, 180+ mph, a pleasant ride, 2 hours 20 minutes. So much better than flying. The shrubbery became less of a blur and the already low din decreased a bit more. Concrete emerged on both sides, then darkness, as we descended under the English Channel.
The Paris portion of the trip was now behind us and was cemented into the memory banks. This description was at times a retroactive narrative, as time dictated that we flit about, taking one lick of the popsicle at each location, before moving on. Once home, I dove a bit further into the historical aspects of our visit, and of course we re-lived moments during the Olympics. Mike Tirico with the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero Plaza behind him…mesmerizing.
Oh, and did I mention that the weather was perfect? You might have been able to tell from the photos.
So so much we did not see.
Thanks for reading!